Paris, mon amour
It's the small things that make me come back again and again to Paris, like the picture-perfect jazz vinyl store on the corner, the friendly, knowledgeable staff in the natural wine store or the perfect espresso standing at the bar in a crowded café.
I've been to Paris five times and each time the experience has been completely different. Here are some of my recent highlights....
Where to stay
A quirky boutique-style hotel in Paris that won't break the bank, you say? Well, look no further...
This small independent hotel ticked every box for me. The staff were welcoming and helpful, the decor is stunning, the location is perfect (1 minute from Les Gobelins Metro station), the bed was really comfortable with the best pillows and bathroom products are from Nuxe.
And then there's the breakfast... oh my! Fresh crusty bread and croissants straight from the oven, a selection of cheese and meats, fresh fruit, eggs and even slices of avocado. Simply divine. You can thank me later.
Another terrific hotel - décor is modern Scandi-style Would recommend an upgrade to a Junior Suite if you can spend a bit extra as it is worth it for the extra space. The bed was super-comfortable while the bathroom had a luxurious rain-shower and products from l’Occitane
And again I have to mention the breakfast: the hotel provides a continental buffet with crusty bread, cheese, meats, yogurt, cereal and freshly squeezed juice, and the cafetiéres of coffee are a nice touch. In addition, hot food was available to order on request (I would highly recommend their omelettes). Service came with a broad smile and a friendly chat every morning making it one of my favourite parts of the day.
Métro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
What to do:
Paris is a city for art lovers and it's no secret that it's home to some of the best museums in the world. There are the obvious stars, the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, though both are becoming increasingly difficult to appreciate with the constant photography and selfie-stick action. So here are some wonderful alternatives, if long queues and battling with crowds is not your thing
Enjoy an immersive art experience at the Atelier des Lumières
Exhibitions to date include the work of Van Gogh, Cézanne and masterpieces of Japanese art. The work is projected digitally across the entire space, floor included, and incorporated into a visual and musical production that will fill your soul and your heart. Sounds gimmicky but it’s utterly wonderful.
Métro: Père Lachaise, Rue Saint-Maur, Voltaire or Saint-Ambroise
World class international exhibitions without the crowds, you say? Time to visit the Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.
There is a lot going on in this complex, including a club and music venue, as well as a fantastic art bookshop.
There are a few different options on site when it comes to food and drink: Les Grands Verres is the outdoor cocktail bar, Monsieur Bleu where you can enjoy a more high-end dining experience under the beautiful Art Deco ceiling, or The Readymade (see image above) which is a casual café-style experience where you order and pay at the counter. Great for people-watching.
Internationally-renowned exhibitions from artists like Thomas Houseago (images above) and Oscar Kokoschka. Permanent collection includes work by Matisse and Dufy
Metro: Alma-Marceau
Immerse yourself in the work of Monet - without the crowds...
Located near the Bois de Boulogne, the museum houses one of the city’s largest collections of Impressionist paintings, and the world's largest collection of Monets.
Métro:
Line 9. La Muette or Ranelagh
Monet’s greatest masterpiece
The curved walls hold what can only be described as Monet’s greatest masterpiece – his frieze of eight panels of the Nymphéas or Water Lilies cycle which took over the final three decades of his life. Monet donated these works to the French State in 1922, and they have been on display at the Musée de l’Orangerie since 1927, installed exactly to the artist’s specifications.
The series of paintings was inspired by the water garden at his Giverny estate in Normandy. The oval-shaped room creates a continuous frieze, and the monumental panels mean you are completely immersed in his landscape of water lilies, weeping willows and pools of water. As you move from painting to painting, the light changes; the season changes; the mood changes.
The room is lit by natural light from above, also to Monet’s specification, and the works are carefully placed to take advantage of this: his sunrise scenes are strategically placed to the east of the building, and the scenes of sunset to the west. The effect is extraordinary.
Get up and personal with Rodin's iconic 'The Thinker'
There are Picasso museums all over Europe, including Barcelona, Antibes and Malaga, but this is one of my favourites. The building is beautiful too
Take it down a notch in the tranquil Jardin des Plantes
Paris is full of gorgeous green spaces. The obvious ones are the Tuileries and the Luxembourg Gardens but this one was a new discovery for me. The Jardin des Plantes is in the 5th Arrondissement, not far from the Sorbonne and the Pantheon, and is an absolute oasis of peace & tranquility.
Métro: Jussieu
Spot the quirky architectural detail of Saint Sulpice
Second only to Notre Dame in size, this majestic building stands proudly over Place and Fontaine St Sulpice. Most of what you see today dates from the 17th century, though it lacks much Baroque excess, and was built on foundations from the early middle ages.
On first glance the facade looks harmonious and classically symmetrical but look a little closer and you'll notice that the two towers are completely different in style. I love that cheeky detail.
Inside you'll find frescoes by the 19th century French Romantic painter Eugene Delacroix (first chapel on the right), as well as some beautiful stained-glass windows.
Metro: Saint-Sulpice or Mabillon
Experience the otherworldly effects of light at Sainte Chapelle
The lesser-known sister of Notre Dame is situated close on the Ile de la Cité. Built in the mid 13th century, it’s a spectacular feat of Gothic architecture and of medieval engineering. Innocuous from the outside and hidden away in the grounds of the Palais de Justice, it’s truly spectacular on the interior with its soaring slender panels of stained-glass (1,113 to be exact) and its magnificent rose window. The whole effect is one of lightness and verticality. Your eyes are immediately drawn upwards, which I imagine was the religious intention.
On a sunny day when the light is streaming through the windows, it’s almost a spiritual experience.
Metro: Cité or Châtelet
Food & Drink
Metro: Gobelins
Ooh la la - the perfect Parisian lunch at Camille in the heart of Le Marais
Tiny tables crammed close together, full to the brim with French people - always a good sign. Menus are hand-written on a blackboard and propped up beside your table as you make your choice. Waiters wear shirts and black bow-ties, but it's not at all pompous. Staff are warm and friendly, and the atmosphere is buzzy. Order the duck (one of their house specials) and the Tarte Tatin which comes with a little pot of clotted cream.
As romantic meals go, this one will be hard to beat. A little gem.
Les Baux
Great value for money. I enjoyed salmon tartare, patatas bravas and a salad, washed down with a half carafe of red and a coffee, all for the grand total of €29
Métro: Place Monge
The best Breton crêpes & galettes in the city
Located in the heart of one of the most touristy areas of the Latin Quarter is this tiny little Breton crêperie which specialises in my favourite type: galettes. Made from buckwheat flour, they are crispier than your regular crêpe and far superior, in my humble opinion. I recommend the one filled with chives, mushrooms, cheese and ham - utterly divine.
They don't offer wine by the glass but they have a really nice non-filtered beer called Brasserie La Baleine from a Parisian micro-brewery.
Metro: Saint-Michel Notre Dame
Junkyard
A cool place for a drink in the 6th district, not far from the Jardins des Luxembourg.
Metro: Mabillon
Walks, viewing points and aimless wandering
One of the most spectacular walks is from the Pont Alexandre III (above) and on to Pont de la Concorde and Place de la Corcorde. Here you get the perfect view all the way up the Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe.
From here, walk through the beautifully manicured Tuileries gardens until you come to Musée du Louvre at the other end.
It’s a really calm space within the city. It’s lush and gorgeous in summer when the trees are in full leaf, lining its symmetrical walkways and offering a welcome respite from the heat.
Pretty green chairs are dotted everywhere so you can pull up a pew at one of the ponds, or sit beneath the trees and read a book. The Tuileries Gardens also houses the wonderful Musée de l’Orangerie (mentioned above).
If you do this walk in the evening as it's starting to get dark, the Pyramide du Louvre will be illuminated. It's really beautiful.
Personally I love how the steel and glass pyramid sits comfortably alongside the classical facades of the surrounding buildings, the earliest of which dates to the 16th century. Designed by I.M. Pei and officially opened in 1989 as the new grand entrance to the museum, this structure was extremely divisive, viewed by some as an abomination of modern architecture. I think it really complements the surrounding buildings, reflecting the old in the new.
Cool neighbourhoods
5th Arrondissement
Explore the picturesque neighbourhoods and warrens of tiny streets close to Place Monge in the 5th Arrondissement, gawping at the beautifully ornate apartments with their Juliet balconies and wishing you lived in one of them.
There are lots of independent wine shops in the city but I particularly loved this one on Rue Monge
They had a great selection of natural wines at very reasonable prices and the staff were friendly and helpful.
Situated in the most quintessentially French building on the corner of Rue de Navarre and Place Émile Male, the place is rammed from wall to wall with every jazz record known to man, crammed into their sections so it's almost impossible to flick from one to the next. If you're looking for something obscure, you will definitely find it here but equally they have all the classics as well. Staffed by two lovely older men, there's not even a hint of hipster attitude here.
Métro: Place Monge
Take a stroll along the lush green banks of Canal St-Martin
It pays to wander off-grid a little in Paris. You'll be rewarded with sights like this. It looks like a scene from a Woody Allen movie. You won't find too many tourists up here, though it's just north of Republique and a gorgeous walk from Richard Lenoir Metro with trees, plants, street art & beautiful buildings to keep you company on the way.
Le Marais
Le Marais in the 4th arrondissement is a vibrant area and one of my favourites for aimless wandering. It's really pretty with winding medieval streets filled with bars and restaurants, boutiques, artisan shops, jewellers, galleries and museums.
It’s also home to the Jewish quarter, Place des Vosges and the magnificent Hôtel de Ville or Town Hall (below).
The prime viewing spot
The best view of the Eiffel Tower is from the platform at the Trocadero. Just FYI - you'll be plagued with people trying to sell you lots of plastic tacky crap so you probably won't want to linger. The unobstructed view is totally worth it though
Bonne vacances
Xx
Paris, mon amour
It's the small things that make me come back again and again to Paris, like the picture-perfect jazz vinyl store on the corner, the friendly, knowledgeable staff in the natural wine store or the perfect espresso standing at the bar in a crowded café.
I've been to Paris five times and each time the experience has been completely different. Here are some of my recent highlights....
Where to stay
A quirky boutique-style hotel in Paris that won't break the bank, you say? Well, look no further...
This small independent hotel ticked every box for me. The staff were welcoming and helpful, the decor is stunning, the location is perfect (1 minute from Les Gobelins Metro station), the bed was really comfortable with the best pillows and bathroom products are from Nuxe.
And then there's the breakfast... oh my! Fresh crusty bread and croissants straight from the oven, a selection of cheese and meats, fresh fruit, eggs and even slices of avocado. Simply divine. You can thank me later.
Another terrific hotel - décor is modern Scandi-style Would recommend an upgrade to a Junior Suite if you can spend a bit extra as it is worth it for the extra space. The bed was super-comfortable while the bathroom had a luxurious rain-shower and products from l’Occitane
And again I have to mention the breakfast: the hotel provides a continental buffet with crusty bread, cheese, meats, yogurt, cereal and freshly squeezed juice, and the cafetiéres of coffee are a nice touch. In addition, hot food was available to order on request (I would highly recommend their omelettes). Service came with a broad smile and a friendly chat every morning making it one of my favourite parts of the day.
Métro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
What to do:
Paris is a city for art lovers and it's no secret that it's home to some of the best museums in the world. There are the obvious stars, the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, though both are becoming increasingly difficult to appreciate with the constant photography and selfie-stick action. So here are some wonderful alternatives, if long queues and battling with crowds is not your thing
Enjoy an immersive art experience at the Atelier des Lumières
Exhibitions to date include the work of Van Gogh, Cézanne and masterpieces of Japanese art. The work is projected digitally across the entire space, floor included, and incorporated into a visual and musical production that will fill your soul and your heart. Sounds gimmicky but it’s utterly wonderful.
Métro: Père Lachaise, Rue Saint-Maur, Voltaire or Saint-Ambroise
World class international exhibitions without the crowds, you say? Time to visit the Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.
There is a lot going on in this complex, including a club and music venue, as well as a fantastic art bookshop.
There are a few different options on site when it comes to food and drink: Les Grands Verres is the outdoor cocktail bar, Monsieur Bleu where you can enjoy a more high-end dining experience under the beautiful Art Deco ceiling, or The Readymade (see image above) which is a casual café-style experience where you order and pay at the counter. Great for people-watching.
Internationally-renowned exhibitions from artists like Thomas Houseago (images above) and Oscar Kokoschka. Permanent collection includes work by Matisse and Dufy
Metro: Alma-Marceau
Immerse yourself in the work of Monet - without the crowds...
Located near the Bois de Boulogne, the museum houses one of the city’s largest collections of Impressionist paintings, and the world's largest collection of Monets.
Métro:
Line 9. La Muette or Ranelagh
Monet’s greatest masterpiece
The curved walls hold what can only be described as Monet’s greatest masterpiece – his frieze of eight panels of the Nymphéas or Water Lilies cycle which took over the final three decades of his life. Monet donated these works to the French State in 1922, and they have been on display at the Musée de l’Orangerie since 1927, installed exactly to the artist’s specifications.
The series of paintings was inspired by the water garden at his Giverny estate in Normandy. The oval-shaped room creates a continuous frieze, and the monumental panels mean you are completely immersed in his landscape of water lilies, weeping willows and pools of water. As you move from painting to painting, the light changes; the season changes; the mood changes.
The room is lit by natural light from above, also to Monet’s specification, and the works are carefully placed to take advantage of this: his sunrise scenes are strategically placed to the east of the building, and the scenes of sunset to the west. The effect is extraordinary.
Get up and personal with Rodin's iconic 'The Thinker'
There are Picasso museums all over Europe, including Barcelona, Antibes and Malaga, but this is one of my favourites. The building is beautiful too
Take it down a notch in the tranquil Jardin des Plantes
Paris is full of gorgeous green spaces. The obvious ones are the Tuileries and the Luxembourg Gardens but this one was a new discovery for me. The Jardin des Plantes is in the 5th Arrondissement, not far from the Sorbonne and the Pantheon, and is an absolute oasis of peace & tranquility.
Métro: Jussieu
Spot the quirky architectural detail of Saint Sulpice
Second only to Notre Dame in size, this majestic building stands proudly over Place and Fontaine St Sulpice. Most of what you see today dates from the 17th century, though it lacks much Baroque excess, and was built on foundations from the early middle ages.
On first glance the facade looks harmonious and classically symmetrical but look a little closer and you'll notice that the two towers are completely different in style. I love that cheeky detail.
Inside you'll find frescoes by the 19th century French Romantic painter Eugene Delacroix (first chapel on the right), as well as some beautiful stained-glass windows.
Metro: Saint-Sulpice or Mabillon
Experience the otherworldly effects of light at Sainte Chapelle
The lesser-known sister of Notre Dame is situated close on the Ile de la Cité. Built in the mid 13th century, it’s a spectacular feat of Gothic architecture and of medieval engineering. Innocuous from the outside and hidden away in the grounds of the Palais de Justice, it’s truly spectacular on the interior with its soaring slender panels of stained-glass (1,113 to be exact) and its magnificent rose window. The whole effect is one of lightness and verticality. Your eyes are immediately drawn upwards, which I imagine was the religious intention.
On a sunny day when the light is streaming through the windows, it’s almost a spiritual experience.
Metro: Cité or Châtelet
Food & Drink
Metro: Gobelins
Ooh la la - the perfect Parisian lunch at Camille in the heart of Le Marais
Tiny tables crammed close together, full to the brim with French people - always a good sign. Menus are hand-written on a blackboard and propped up beside your table as you make your choice. Waiters wear shirts and black bow-ties, but it's not at all pompous. Staff are warm and friendly, and the atmosphere is buzzy. Order the duck (one of their house specials) and the Tarte Tatin which comes with a little pot of clotted cream.
As romantic meals go, this one will be hard to beat. A little gem.
Les Baux
Great value for money. I enjoyed salmon tartare, patatas bravas and a salad, washed down with a half carafe of red and a coffee, all for the grand total of €29
Métro: Place Monge
The best Breton crêpes & galettes in the city
Located in the heart of one of the most touristy areas of the Latin Quarter is this tiny little Breton crêperie which specialises in my favourite type: galettes. Made from buckwheat flour, they are crispier than your regular crêpe and far superior, in my humble opinion. I recommend the one filled with chives, mushrooms, cheese and ham - utterly divine.
They don't offer wine by the glass but they have a really nice non-filtered beer called Brasserie La Baleine from a Parisian micro-brewery.
Metro: Saint-Michel Notre Dame
Junkyard
A cool place for a drink in the 6th district, not far from the Jardins des Luxembourg.
Metro: Mabillon
Walks, viewing points and aimless wandering
One of the most spectacular walks is from the Pont Alexandre III (above) and on to Pont de la Concorde and Place de la Corcorde. Here you get the perfect view all the way up the Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe.
From here, walk through the beautifully manicured Tuileries gardens until you come to Musée du Louvre at the other end.
It’s a really calm space within the city. It’s lush and gorgeous in summer when the trees are in full leaf, lining its symmetrical walkways and offering a welcome respite from the heat.
Pretty green chairs are dotted everywhere so you can pull up a pew at one of the ponds, or sit beneath the trees and read a book. The Tuileries Gardens also houses the wonderful Musée de l’Orangerie (mentioned above).
If you do this walk in the evening as it's starting to get dark, the Pyramide du Louvre will be illuminated. It's really beautiful.
Personally I love how the steel and glass pyramid sits comfortably alongside the classical facades of the surrounding buildings, the earliest of which dates to the 16th century. Designed by I.M. Pei and officially opened in 1989 as the new grand entrance to the museum, this structure was extremely divisive, viewed by some as an abomination of modern architecture. I think it really complements the surrounding buildings, reflecting the old in the new.
Cool neighbourhoods
5th Arrondissement
Explore the picturesque neighbourhoods and warrens of tiny streets close to Place Monge in the 5th Arrondissement, gawping at the beautifully ornate apartments with their Juliet balconies and wishing you lived in one of them.
There are lots of independent wine shops in the city but I particularly loved this one on Rue Monge
They had a great selection of natural wines at very reasonable prices and the staff were friendly and helpful.
Situated in the most quintessentially French building on the corner of Rue de Navarre and Place Émile Male, the place is rammed from wall to wall with every jazz record known to man, crammed into their sections so it's almost impossible to flick from one to the next. If you're looking for something obscure, you will definitely find it here but equally they have all the classics as well. Staffed by two lovely older men, there's not even a hint of hipster attitude here.
Métro: Place Monge
Take a stroll along the lush green banks of Canal St-Martin
It pays to wander off-grid a little in Paris. You'll be rewarded with sights like this. It looks like a scene from a Woody Allen movie. You won't find too many tourists up here, though it's just north of Republique and a gorgeous walk from Richard Lenoir Metro with trees, plants, street art & beautiful buildings to keep you company on the way.
Le Marais
Le Marais in the 4th arrondissement is a vibrant area and one of my favourites for aimless wandering. It's really pretty with winding medieval streets filled with bars and restaurants, boutiques, artisan shops, jewellers, galleries and museums.
It’s also home to the Jewish quarter, Place des Vosges and the magnificent Hôtel de Ville or Town Hall (below).
The prime viewing spot
The best view of the Eiffel Tower is from the platform at the Trocadero. Just FYI - you'll be plagued with people trying to sell you lots of plastic tacky crap so you probably won't want to linger. The unobstructed view is totally worth it though
Bonne vacances
Xx