The lowdown
There is so much more to Dublin than Temple Bar. As a tourist, you are unlikely to meet any actual Dubliners in a bar in this part of the city - this is not where they choose to hang out. By and large, bars in this area are catering entirely to tourists, overpriced and with an exaggerated focus on a faux 'Irishness' and all kinds of paddywhackery.
But if you can see beyond the shamrocks and leprauchauns and are interested in a taste of the real Dublin, then let me guide you through some of my all-time favourite spots. Some have been there forever, others are new kids on the block but they all share one thing in common - a good time is guaranteed
Best pints of Guinness
A friendly traditional lounge and bar close to Christchurch Cathedral...
The Lord Edward
@theindietripper
Sit at the bar downstairs and chat to the locals and bar staff, or at weekends enjoy the comfy surroundings of the upstairs lounge. With views of the beautifully-illuminated Christchurch Cathedral from its windows, plus an open fire and walls heaving with historical paraphrenalia, its cosy, inviting atmosphere, plus excellent pints of Guinness, makes this the perfect spot for catching up with friends. With no music and no TV (upstairs - there is a tv in the bar downstairs), expect only the hum of convivial conversation.
Make sure to grab some of Dublin's finest fish and chips from Burdock's before you leave - just around the corner from the pub
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One of Dublin's best loved pubs - since it opened in 1782...
Mulligan's
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Historic Mulligans, with its cosy, buzzing atmosphere has been much-loved by Dubliners since its earliest days. Known as a hangout for journalists and theatre-lovers, expect friendly but slightly gruff service, and a typical razor-sharp Dublin wit
A short walk from O'Connell St and the Abbey Theatre
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A favourite for cosy Sunday evening pints. The red-brick facade is instantly alluring and the ornate lamps are originals, dating to the 19th century
NEARY’S
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A warm and welcoming atmosphere with plush seats, low-lighting and elegant olde-worlde décor (not a TV in sight...) makes this one of the capital's most loved pubs. Established in 1887, it's a regular haunt of theatre goers and actors (the Gaiety Theatre is just around the corner) Service is efficent and friendly with staff today still sporting traditional black-tie. Classy without pretention.
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Characterful pub on Harold's Cross bridge - for a flavour of local wit & lively Karaoke...
Harold House
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Located in Portobello, right on Harold's Cross Bridge, (about 2kms from the city centre) the Harold House is one of the most lively pubs in the neighbourhood. Unassuming from the exterior, it's frequented by a mix of locals propping up the bar, and a new generation of hipsters, drawn to its fine pints of Guinness, cosy atmosphere, no-nonsense attitude and unintentionally hilarious Karaoke nights, where regulars belt out all the old 'favourites' Good luck trying to get a slot - if you haven't been drinking here for at least twenty years, you'll still be considered a blow-in...
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A slice of lively local flavour, with a healthy dollop of sarcasm & inner-city humour.
Tom Kennedy's Bar
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If you're going to a gig in Vicar St, then this is the place to go for your pre-gig pint.
Unpretentious & casual with great Guinness - what more could you want?
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Best for cocktails
Cocktails in one of Dublin's most beautiful Art Deco settings..
Stella Cocktail Club
@theindietripper
Luxuriate in the plush, elegant 1920s-inspired surroundings while sipping on one of their classic cocktails, or go wild and try one of their more experimental creations. Staff are warm, friendly and the ultimate professionals. Food is good too.
Located in Rathmines, a youthful neighbourhood just a few kms from the city centre.
Worth noting - downstairs you'll find one of the most unique cinematic experiences. All of the 1920s glamour is replicated, with the option of booking a plush armchair or couch, or even a bed, to enjoy a film in the lap of luxury. You can bring your cocktails in to the movie, and order food directly to your table. There's even a huge footstool in front of each seat, doubling as storage for your coat and bag, and a place to rest your legs. You'll never want to leave
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For prohibition-style cocktails and in a plush 1920s setting...
Vintage Cocktail Club
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VCC is a glamorous speakeasy right in the heart of Temple Bar. Like all speakeasys, its entrance is somewhat low-key and tricky to find. Buzz in at a weather-beaten door (only a teeny sticker bearing the letters VCC denotes its existence...) and climb the stairs to sample an array of excellent cocktails by masters of the craft. The cocktail menu is divided up by era, starting in the 1600-1700s, and also by drinks & spirits that were most popular at these times, for example Golden Age (early-mid 1800s); Martinis (mid to late 1800s); Manhattans (later 1800s) etc... Being a huge Manhattan fan, I can attest to the fact they make the best in the city.
Each menu offers the VCCs own twists on classic cocktails, but it's also worth checking out their Signature Serves.
It's cool, elegant and fun but not at all stuffy or pretentious. Staff are friendly and the atmosphere is buzzy - perfect for a treat with friends.
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Another lively spot in the heart of the city's south side...
Lemon & Duke
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New York-style cocktail bar, just off Grafton St. Fabulous bright and spacious interior with copper features and plush leather seats - best spot is sitting at the bar.
Wide-ranging and inventive cocktail menu but they also offer a good selection of craft beers (Urquell Pilsner is really good) and wine by the glass or bottle (glasses from €7)
With a relaxed, easy-going vibe and friendly staff, this is a great spot to come for afternoon drinks with friends, or on a date. The food is really good too
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Wine Bars
My all-time favourite wine bar in the city - a vast but atmospheric candelit wine cellar, its walls lined with delectable wines from all over the world
Fallon & Byrne - Wine Cellar
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Nab a table, sit at the bar or grab a high stool at one of the cool wooden barrels dotted around the room. Ambiance is warm, friendly and convivial and it's always busy - reservations are necessary, especially at weekends, but walk-ins are also accepted. While other places have come and gone, F&B has remained a popular spot, praised for its excellent wine, knowledgeable staff and delicious food. Menu offers small to large sharing plates, antipasti, cheese boards, pasta and pizza. Make sure to try their basil aioli with chunky chips - so good
Choose from a glass or bottle on the menu of the day, or pick a bottle from the shelf for an additional €10 corkage. Worth noting - corkage is only €1 Sunday to Tuesdays...
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Intimate wine bar, tucked away on a little laneway opposite the Mansion House. Expect classy & professional French service without attitude or pretention - a perfect spot for date night
La Ruelle Wine Bar
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Melted Camembert with crusty bread, anyone? Not only is La Ruelle known from its fabulous wine selection, they also dish up some seriously good food. From artisan charcuterie to cheeseboards; from seared scallops to Tartiflette, let's just say you won't leave hungry
Vast selection of carefully chosen wines by the glass and bottle
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Youthful, casual wine bar in the heart of the Italian Quarter...
Sfuso
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With a selection of reasonably priced Italian wines by the glass (and bottle...) and a small but tasty food menu, this cosy enoteca is the perfect spot to while away a few hours. Grab a table by the window, or in summer on the terrace for some prime people-watching
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Vibrant and casual neighbourhood wine shop and bar in the heart of Dublin 8. Top marks - wines are sourced mainly from small independent producers who farm sustainably.
The Wine Pair
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With the charming husband and wife duo Mags and Canice (Portobello natives) at the helm, this is a friendly, covivial wine bar offering carefully-chosen, excellent value wines by the glass or bottle. Snacks, cheese and charcuterie platters are also available as accompaniments
With a 'focus on organic, biodynamic and natural wines from small producers who farm sustainably' they get top marks from me. Worth noting - the wines on tap are also available for sale in the wine shop to take away. Just simply bring back the bottle next time for a refill - simple idea but a really impressive one.
Outdoor seating is great for people-watching during the warmer months
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Best for aperitivo
The clue is in the name... One of the coolest additions to Dublin's night scene is the small but perfectly formed Aperitivo - a Venetian cicchetti bar, the first of its kind in the city...
Aperitivo
@theindietripper
Cicchetti are the Venetian version of tapas - small plates to be shared and enjoyed with a drink or two. It's a concept that works really well and the retro décor is absolutely stunning - 1950s glamour meets Wes Anderson. Expect exposed-brick walls, low-lighting, plush seating, and exquisite lamps made from original Campari bottles.
With a huge picture-window framing the intimate setting and diners within, Aperitivo is instantly alluring from the street. A little gem
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One for the vinyl lovers. And jazz lovers too
Tucked away behind the gritty facades of Parnell St lies one of Dublin's coolest bars. Serving up craft beers, wine and cocktails in a beautiful, intimate setting, not only do they take their drinks seriously, but their music too...
The Big Romance
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From cool leather booths to walls lined with vinyl, the vibe is hip without being too hipster - staff are friendly and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Monday to Thursday, come along to hear staff pick and play a selection of their favourite records. You can even bring your own LPs for a chance to listen on their high-spec soundsystem
Fridays and Saturdays, it's open late for DJ sets while on Sundays, book in advance for the wonderful Sunday Live Jazz sessions. Reservations are essential to bag one of the prime tables in front of the stage but walk-ins are always welcome too. One of the best spots in the city
Oh and you can also order pizza to your table, courtesy of One Society. 10' is standard and they are seriously delicious - prices from €10.50
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Best for craft beer
Another cracker of a bar in the vibey Portobello area of Dublin 8. Expect a wild and wonderful ever-changing menu of unusual craft beers
57 The Headline
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At the heart of the Portobello community, this is one of the most popular bars in the area - there's a good reason I've been coming here for 20 years. A warm welcome always awaits with husband and wife duo Geoff and Moira at the helm. A hospitable and friendly atmosphere keeps the regulars coming back, while their broad and intriguing craft beer menu caters to a youthful cohort too. The wine menu is small but carefully chosen and the best value in the city at present (Jan 2023) - one of the few establishments whose prices have not gone through the roof since reopening after Covid.
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Best for food
Cosy neighbourhood gastropub in the heart of Stoneybatter
L. Mulligan Grocer
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With a focus on Irish-produce, the food here is a notch above your average pub-grub, though the prices are more expensive than average too. Make sure to order the Scotch egg as a starter - meat and veggie options are available. Menu notes different beers to pair with your food - a novel departure from wine pairings.
Service is fun and friendly
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A solid reputation as one of just two gastropubs in Dublin to be recommended by the Michelin “Eating out in Pubs” Guide annually, since 2016.
The Old Spot
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No ordinary pub-food... This is 'fine-dining' style food in a relaxed, warm and cosy pub setting.
The food itself is like a comforting hug for your belly with the likes of truffle Mac 'n' Cheese and mushroom risotto with crispy sage. Cured organic salmon is pretty exceptional. And a lighter starter means you'll have room for one of their delectable deserts.
Wines are available by the glass, bottle or carafe.
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Also can be filed under 'excellent for inventive cocktails', including virgin cocktails...
Bombay Butter Club @ The Lucky Duck
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In two bright, art-filled dining rooms above the Lucky Duck bar is one of the city's coolest concepts - Indian tapas. I love this idea - Indian food is amazing but I always want to sample a bit of everything. Here, you can do just that. Perfect for pairing with their innovative cocktails but they also have wine and beer.
Worth noting - they can make any of the cocktails on the menu as a non-alcoholic version, or just tell them what you like and they'll make you up something unique - just for you. Staff are friendly and fun
Everything on the menu is good but I heartily recommend the Babycorn Temp-kora and the Masala Fries (you may not want to share these though...)
Food is excellent value too
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