This is a backpacking guide for hiking and camping 2-10 days in the Drakensberg of South Africa. This guide includes 4 different routes of various difficulty and length, including the route as seen in my Youtube film. In addition, all practical information is included: how to get there, permits, weather, overnight options and practical tips.

The Drakensberg mountains form part of the border between South Africa and the high plateau of Lesotho almost 1800 meters higher. These mountains are remote, and the terrain is challenging, but the landscape, views, caves for camping and people makes this my personal favorite hiking location in the world.

What this guide includes:
- 4 different itineraries with routes, distances, best overnight (camping) options and other useful waypoints;
- custom Google Maps with all the important locations (campsites, grocery stores, parking lots, caves, water sources, trails and viewpoints);
- gpx-tracks of all the routes.
- all the practical information: how to get there, trail conditions, weather, geography and more.

Get an impression on youtube/harmenhoek.

Backpacking the Drakensberg - South Africa

Solo Hiking The Drakensberg - South Africa (short version)

That really depends on your level of experience. Hiking in the Drakensberg is really challenging: there are no trails, you are at high elevation (3000m+) and the terrain is rough. On top of that you have to be fully self sufficient. There are no mountain huts or towns anywhere nearby. The easiest route is Tugela Loop in Royal Natal National Park, known for the Amphitheater and Tugela Falls. Since the highest access route in the area is where this hike starts, it is the easiest of the 4. The Cathedral Peak loop is a big step up, and requires 2-3 nights starting and ending at Cathedral Peak Hotel. The Mnweni loop is similar in distance, but the area is even more remote and the trails are steeper and rockier. A combination of these 3 options is the one-way Cathedral Peaks to Tugela Trek starting at Cathedral Peak Hotel and finishing in Tugela National Park, with a stop at Mnweni.

* = elevation maps of this area are very inaccurate. My daily elevation gain was usually about 150-200% of what I planned at the start of the day using OpenStreetMaps.

2) Medium | 2-3 nights | Cathedral Peak Loop

4) Extreme | 6-9 nights | Cathedral Peaks to Tugela Trek

GPX Files - The Drakensberg

Custom Google Maps The Drakensberg

This route starts just behind the Amphitheater in Royal Natal national park, the most popular area of the park. The amphitheater is the location of Tugela Falls, a complex of waterfalls considered the tallest in the world. The trail to the top of the waterfalls starts at the Sentinel parking lot, the highest and most easy way to get up the plateau. It is a popular route for day hikers.

But just beyond the waterfalls, you get to experience the real Drakensberg: no people, no trails. You can spend at least one night in Ifidi Cave, a relatively easy 2 hour hike from the waterfalls. From there you can explore the escarpment for an extra day, or head back down to the waterfalls.

At the (still opened in early 2022) restaurant at the Sentinel parking lot. R60, about €3.50 per night.

Start at the Sentinel parking lot, named after Sentinel peak boldly visible from the lot. Early 2022 the 5km road to the parking lot was still under construction, and only accessible by 4x4 (the road is like a riverbed so high clearance is recommended). Shuttle rides are provided by Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge, just down the road, also a great scenic place to spend the night before and after the hike.

The trail from the parking lot is paved for the first 4.5km (2.8mi) and technically not difficult, but you might feel the thin air at almost 3000m elevation. After 3.5km (2.2mi) and 450m (1500ft) elevation gain the trail splits up. The paved trail heads to the infamous Sentinel Ladders, a set of two metal ladders hanging vertically almost 50m tall. It is possible to hire a local guide to assist with climbing gear, but most people do it without.

The other 'Gorge' route avoids the ladders completely by climbing up steeply through a narrow gorge. The trail is technically more challenging, but better for people with fear of heights.

Up top, it is about 1.6km (1mi) on a dirt trail toward the top of the waterfalls. This is where you'll get some of the best views as you look down in the Amphitheater of Royal Natal National Park.

It might be tempting to spend the night near the waterfalls, but that's not the safest option (see Safety section below). On the Custom Google Maps I marked several locations near the waterfalls that are relatively safe for camping. Keep in mind that especially towards the end of summer, the weather might be unpredictable and it is better to stay in a cave. A popular cave is Ifidi Cave, about 8km (5mi) from the waterfalls. To get there, head south over the hill just beyond the abandoned mountain hut (also the only building up the escarpment). Head southwest in either the first or second valley to the left. The first valley will take you closer to the edge of the escarpment and offer better views. Go over the pass just west of Mount Amery and follow the edge of the escarpment. The cave is hidden just below the edge of the escarpment and might be difficult to find. Pay attention to a cairn of stones just 150m before the terrain climbs up steeply to the Ifidi Buttress. At the cairn go down and follow the edge east till you get to the cave. As an alternative you can stay overnight in Verdana Cave closeby.

Sunrises from the cave are just amazing. For the second day you have the option to either head back to Tugela Falls and back down, or explore the escarpment a bit more. The inland of Lesotho is not as extreme looking as the edge of the Escarpment, but it is beautiful. The terrain is hilly with the (Khubedu) meandering through these hills. Higher up the river banks is where the Sotho people live. Some candy for the shepherds gets you a long way there.

You can wild camp land inwards where the shepherds live. It is relatively safe, but I personally didn't feel really comfortable in my tent there. Instead, head for Icidi Cave (facing the interior), or spend another night in Ifidi Cave.

If you have time, climb to the top of Mont-Aux-Sources on your way back. Three mayor South African rivers originate on the Mont-Aux-Sources, the Tugela, which flows eastwards into the Indian Ocean, the Caledon River to the east and the Elands river to the north, both tributaries of the Orange River, which in turn flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

The Cathedral Peak area is located in the northern tip of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, and about 40km (25mi) south of Royal Natal as the bird flies. The area is named after Cathedral Peak, one of the most instantly recognizable peaks in a line of free-standing peaks that have been separated from the main escarpment by erosion. In the wet summer months the foothills are lush and green and seem to go on forever.

Down in the valley lies Cathedral Peak Hotel, one of the most luxurious (and expensive) hotels in the area. Just past the park entrance lies Didima Camp, where you can overnight, register and buy hiking permits. More affordable overnight options are about a 40-minute drive to Winterton. The only road between Winterton and Cathedral peak is populated by poor but friendly locals.

The route is more difficult than the Tugela Loop. For one, the road lies about 1600-1800 meters (5000-6000ft) below the edge of the escarpment. But the trails are traveled often, and thus easy to follow.

At Didima Camp, just inside the park. R60, about €3.50 per night.

The Cathedral Peak Hotel land is private property, so you can not park close to the hotel. Just outside the gate is a special hikers parking lot. The park has a guarded entrance and thus is relatively safe, but there is no supervision of the parking lot. It would be safer to park at Didima Camp and start the hike from there.

Follow the (marked) trail to Doreen Falls. Just before the Falls, stay left to follow the trail higher up the mountain. The trail isn't marked anymore, but it is hard to go wrong. The slope is gentle at first, but as you approach the Escarpment, it gets a lot steeper. There is little to no shade, but plenty of water along the way in the summer months. The hike to the top is long: 10km (6.2mi) and more than 1600m (5200ft) of climbing. Especially close to the escarpment the terrain can be quite challenging, with the highlight Windy Gap, just below the Escarpment. It's a narrow gorge you have to climb up through with giant boulders to climb over.

At Organ Pipes Pass the terrain flattens out as you pass into Lesotho. An excellent place to stay for the night is Roland's Cave. It's tricky to find on the right ledge on the steep cliff wall to the cave, and impossible to explain. GPS is useless since a normal 10m inaccuracy translates to 200m height difference on this steep terrain. The ledge to the cave is small and not for the faint hearted, but the cave is one of the best in the area with the best views. The trail is basically level, so if you have to use hands and feet, you're on the wrong ledge. Other less dangerous options are Upper Ndumeni Cave 1 or 2 a bit higher up. Check the link of the cave database below, it has some helpful info and pictures of these caves.

In the wet summer months small pools of water can be found between the mountain pass and the cave, in winter you have to head a kilometer on the escarpment for water. But if it rains, the cave opening turns into a small waterfall, providing enough water.

On day 2, head northwest along the escarpment. You'll notice the terrain is much different than yesterday. There is little vegetation up top and no trails, so GPS is quite handy here. But keep in mind that the elevation maps are not very accurate, and you often have more elevation gain than planned. And also: the continuous +3000 m elevation makes it challenging.

Cleft Peak (the second highest peak in the Northern Drakensberg) is a nice peak, the 300m (900ft) climb is doable, and the views are almost 360 degrees up there.

About 5km (3mi) northwest of Cleft Peak is the Elephant: a large rock formation that sort of resembles an elephant. There is a trail heading a bit down to the Elephant, before climbing up out of the subsidence through a gorge. This is a bit of nasty 300m (900ft) climb, especially later on the day. This subsidence offers a few relatively flat spots for camping and a bit of shelter from storms, but the closest water source is a good kilometer back. An awesome place to spend the night is Easter Cave, 6km (4mi) from the Elephant subsidence, mostly downhill. Camping here brings the days total to about 14km (9mi) with 500-800m (1600-2600ft) of elevation gain. Easter Cave is easily found by heading for the coordinates. At the edge of the escarpment, go down a little and approach the cave from either the north or the south. In the wet months there is a steady drip of water in the cave. In the dryer months Kwakwatsi river 200m down up the escarpment is a reliable source of water. The cave is a bit smaller than Roland's cave, and can be a bit windy in bad weather, but it offers good protection against rain and amazing views. Alternative, but less protective caves to stay in are Bellevue Cave or Twins Cave, just down from Mlambonja Pass.

If you're lucky the sun rises exactly between the two mountains you look out on from the cave. Follow the escarpment southeast for about 1.3km (0.8mi) to Mlambonja Pass. Just beyond the pass there are two main trails heading back to Cathedral Peak hotel. The most southern trail is the shortest one (14km, 9mi), and particularly steep the first 3 kilometers with grades up to 40%. The most northern trail is longer (16km, 10mi) with more elevation gain, but definitely the more scenic and technical one. It follows the ridge for about 5 kilometers, passing just below some free standing peaks including Cathedral Peak. It then has a 10km (6mi) long gentle descent down to Cathedral Peak hotel.

Route: Mnweni Cultural Centre - Chichi Bush Camp - Mnweni Pass - Orange River - Ncedamabutho Point - Mponjwane / Ledger’s Cave - Rockeries Pass - Mnweni Cultural Centre

The Mnweni (or mNweni) area is the only non-protected area in the Northern Drakensberg (see information below). It is considered the most rough but beautiful area of the Drakensberg, with some of the best views at the top. The long foothills are inhabited by (poor) farmers, who are friendly. A little tip is to bring some small candy (sweeties) for the children. Some of the passes in this area are used for drug smuggling by the so-called Dagga's. I have never encountered one, but from what I've read these are generally chill guys, but armed. Nevertheless it is recommended to camp out of sight of the trail.

There are cattle and foot-trails used by the locals which should cover most of your hike in the foothills. Only a couple of the passes have clear trails – for most passes you have to be able to navigate up dim paths, river beds and steep grassy slopes. What makes this loop so much more challenging than the Cathedral Peak loop is the fact that trails heading to escarpment are much steeper and less traveled (thus overgrown) and the foothills are much longer.

If you’ve never done a multi-day hike before, and you don’t have a high fitness level, I’d give Mnweni a skip.

At Mnweni Cultural Centre. R60, about €3.50 per night.

Start the hike at Mnweni Cultural Centre, the only place to stay in the area. The camp offers camping facilities, huts with proper beds, shower facilities and a shared kitchen. But there are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere nearby, so you'll have to be fully self-sufficient. Getting there is 1-1.5 hour drive from Bergville on mostly unpaved roads. It can be done with a normal car, but high clearance is recommended. The Cultural Centre does not have a website, nor does it take phone calls. But they claim to be open all-year round.

From Mnweni camp, follow the dirt road east towards the escarpment. After about 6km (getting a ride there is even better), just before the first river crossing with the Mnweni river, head off the dirt road and follow the Mnweni river via a cattle-trail. For the next 10km (6mi) follow the river climbing a gentle 400 meters in elevation. There are several cattle trails, not all heading in the right direction, so some gps navigation is useful. After 10km (6mi) the trail splits up at 5-Star Cave (why this cave is called like that is unknown). Heading west is the trail to Fangs pass, which I do not recommend, to the south is the trail towards Mnweni pass, a much better option. The trail gets steeper here, gaining about 400m (1300ft) in the next 4km (2.5mi), with sections up to 20%. The last 3km (2mi) are by far the steepest and most technical, with grades over 45% for a large part of it. But, you'll certainly be rewarded with some of the best views as you get closer to the edge of the escarpment and wind behind the plateau.

Although the final climb is relatively short, the long prologue and poor trails make it hard to make it up in one day. Good options for camping are 10km (6mi) in from the dirt road at 5-Star Cave (sleeps 6 without tents, water a bit down at Mbundini River, views 3/5), or Chichi Bush camp 13km (8mi) from the road, just before the steep last 3km (2mi). Chichi Bushcamp offers a campsite area consisting of several isolated flat spots in the river bed gravel at the confluence of the Pins stream and Mnweni River.

Up the escarpment there are no trails. Some of the best views in the area are from the edge of the escarpment at Ncedamabutho point. Close to this point is also the source of the mighty Orange River that flows into the Atlantic Ocean almost 2500km (1500mi) away. Two great options for camping here are Ledger's Cave (sleeps 12 without tents, water closeby at source of Orange river, views 5/5) and Mponjwane Cave (sleeps 12 without tents,water 1km at source of Orange river, views 5/5).

If you have the time and the weather is on your side, you can spend two nights in these caves to explore the edge of the escarpment or head deeper into Lesotho. To get down, head to Rockeries Pass. The first part of the descent is the steepest, but a little more gradual than the climb up, dropping about 800m (2600ft) in 3km (2mi) (gradients up to 30-40%). The trail of this section is also really bad, with lots of loose rock and boulders. After the steep drop, the terrain flattens out and you pass through several types of flora. After 4km (2.5mi) and another 500m (1600ft) drop, you'll have to cross the Ntonjelan' eshonalanga river, which can be done without wet feet.

The last almost flat 3km (2mi) to the gravel road is the most wet and probably overgrown section. Keep an eye out for snakes.

You'll know when you're close to the road if you spot the first houses with thatch roofing. The last 6km (4mi) back to Mnweni Cultural Centre is quite straightforward, but that might be nice for a change.

For camping on the way down, there are some flat spots in the grass between the trees with reasonable water access just after the big drop 3km (2mi) in. The river crossing also offers some flat accessible spots on the river bed gravel. Sunshine Cave just higher up offers good shelter, but is only accessible by hiking back up the river crossing.

Route: Cathedral Peak Hotel - Organ Pipes Pass - Roland's Cave - Cleft Peak - the Elephant - Easter Cave - The Saddle - Rockeries Pass - Mnweni Cultural Centre - Mnweni Pass - Icidi Butress / Kubedu River - Ifidi Cave - Tugela Falls - Sentinel Ladders - Sentinel parking lot

This route is basically a combination of the 3 routes above. Since it's a one-way route it is best done with a second person that drops you off and helps with supplies at Mnweni Cultural Centre. Another option is to make a food drop at Mnweni yourself, park your car at Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge and arrange transport (arrange with Witsieshoek for a driver) to Cathedral Peak. This is by far the toughest route of the 4.

At Didima Camp, just inside the park. R60, about €3.50 per night. For the overnight stay at Mnweni, register there. Call Didima Camp to confirm your return.

Start at Cathedral Peak and follow route option 1 up till Easter Cave. Instead of heading down off the escarpment, follow the escarpment to Rockeries Pass. The section between North and South Peak (The Saddle) is particularly nice with great views of North Peak. You'll have great views of these peaks from below during the final part of the descent to Mnweni Cultural Centre. From Rockeries pass follow route option 3 down to Mnweni Cultural Centre and back towards the escarpment. As I shortcut I attempted Fangs Pass back to the escarpment instead of Mnweni pass. But I highly discourage anyone from attempting this route. It is unmapped and fully overgrown, meaning you have to bushwhack your way up. With this option you'll also miss out on the great views from Ledger's or Mponjwane caves. From Mnweni Pass head southwest along the escarpment. Close to Pins Pass there are some good options for camping, as well as Pins Cave (sleeps 6 without tents, water 100m (300ft) up and beyond Pins Pass, views 5/5).

At Fangs Pass you have two options: follow the valley deeper into Lesotho towards the Kubedu River (where the Sotho shepherd's live), or follow the escarpment directly towards Ifidi or Icidi Cave. Note that Icidi and Ifidi are 2 different caves, passes and mountains with very similar names. Camping can be done close to the Khubedu River but I recommend not camping near the river to stay out of sight of the shepherds. There are plenty of side streams with camping spots that offer great views of the Lesotho mountains. Icidi Cave (sleeps 4, some small streams in the area in summer months) is located in a long rock band facing Lesotho, Ifidi Cave (sleeps 8 without tent, water drips in summer, views 5/5) faces South Africa with great views. Option 1 explains how to find this cave. From here follow the route from option 1 to Tugela Falls and down to the Sentinel parking lot.

For 9000 ZAR (€600), you can book helicopter transport to the plateau (Mnweni), spend the night up there and be picked up the next day. No strenuous hiking required. (;